If you didn’t get down to London Fashion Week Men’s formerly known as LCM – London Collection Men, keep reading, this post is for you!!! To kick-start the third day of London Fashion Week Men’s, with much thought about how to cover the shows we decided to focus on S/S 18 trends. We collaborated with Niji Fashion magazine, we attended London Fashion Week Men’s to cover Maharishi, Berthold and KTZ. Here is a debut of what we came up with as a collective after all we dvte through collaboration.
Maharishi S/S 17
The S/S 17 collection presented at Maharishi showcased the Tour D’ Afrique, with the focus looking at the military relationship between the East x West, with a play on utilitarian wear providing a diverse range for both male and female.
The ambience of the music reflected the mixture of the two cultures clashing into one, with an up-beat tempo sound of voices. The East meets West concept brings together the aesthetic of contrasting military elements, traditional North African handcrafts and the natural resources of Africa.
A contrasting colour palette was displayed representing the mines of Africa, crystal clear white, block colouring of natural earthy tones like muted khaki to psychotropic shades of shocking yellows, peachy pinks and electric blues reflecting the importance of mother nature. The new DPM: tiger-striped camouflage print – created by hand screening was prominently painted on models face, military uniforms and headwear.
It was clear that Maharishi Tour D’ Afrique delivered a modern, military style with key influences from Africa and Asia and references to the occupation of Africa over natural resource Coltan. Coltan is a natural resource used in all mobile phones and laptops, Maharishi shared light on the story of the occupation and conflict across Africa over Coltan.
The highlights: Map embroidery and the Djellaba from North West Africa – a long loose-fitting robe became a hooded loose fitting robe a key garment in showing the cultural elements of Africa. Colour and earthy tones resembled the natural tones of Africa with Slouchy silk kimonos sets, bombers with oriental embroideries and footwear that referenced Asia. Sari inspired draped fabrics along the shoulders and key accessories of face masks and bold sunglasses and bum bags overlaid on garments.
BERTHOLD A/W 17
The BERTHOLD = ASYLUM collection explored the rhythm of restriction, through the push and pull of proportions, languid silhouettes and displays of roughly wrapped bandaging around faces and skin-tight body gloves. With contrasting textures of rich felted wools, cotton and fluffy mohair, Berthold’s colour tones involved poplar whites, deep black and a new shade bruised, a wine berry red. The collection was styled to perfection, with a play on heavy layers’, sportif jackets had been elongated and loosened with a slouchy silhouette teamed with wide legged trousers and bomber jackets with spliced elbows.
Proportions, movement and texture
KTZ A/W 17
Two words: Power and Mono-Military KTZ’s A/W 17 stuck to their signature colour code of black and white but offered, pops of earthy ‘Urban’ khaki/olive the statement collection took references from the punk subculture and youth expression of freedom.
A repetition of heavy laced up handcrafted weaving was present sown into Air Force 1 style hats, trousers and dresses, corset belts layered onto hoodies and coats snipped in the waist with loose laces flowing off the garments as the models strutted. The freedom to express an ideology of Gender fluidity within clothing was embraced, as male models wore pleated black skirts paired with oversized bomber jackets or hoodies combining masculine and feminine elements with snoods, caps and scarfs worn on shoulders.
Texture played a major role within this collection, from fur sweatshirts, to leather ensembles, to knitwear, this collection exuded urban aggression VS youth expression.
Designers played with natural resources, handcrafted techniques and youth culture some also popped back to the 80’s, still remixing the old with the new. However, currently the combat modern military style is stamping its way throughout London, with designers interlinked into both seasons A/W 17 and S/S 18.